The Grants’ Lives at Long Branch

 


Ulysses and Julia Dent Grant pose beside their summer cottage
in Long Branch, N.J. Julia’s father sits to the right.

Julia wrote in her memoirs that the Grants, including their children and her father, rushed to Long Branch for the summers as soon as Congress adjourned. She wrote that the cottage was a “boon” to the weary president, who re-charged his batteries there amid the resort’s “health-giving breezes and its wide and restful piazzas.”

The Grants received guests at their cottage, attended balls at the nearby West End Hotel, swam in the sea, and went on what Julia called “glorious drives on that enchanting beach.” Perry wrote that Grant, during and after his presidency, was known locally as the community’s “’first citizen.’” Residents and tourists would stroll past the Ocean Avenue cottage to catch a glimpse of Grant sitting with his wife on their porch.


Ulysses and Julia Dent Grant in Long Branch with their children and servants. The Grants gathered for summer vacations at their cottage.

Grant enjoyed playing poker with friends every Friday night during the summer. Otherwise, his routine at Long Branch included taking his carriage out twice a day, driving his horses quickly along Ocean Avenue, returning from his morning drive to have breakfast, and reading his mail on the veranda. On July 4, 1872, he was at Long Branch “amidst cannons firing, bells ringing, and fireworks going off.” Three summers later, the president also spent July 4 locally, visiting nearby Heightstown for the day, according to James Heintze.

Jesse wrote in his memoirs that his mother relaxed the most and was happiest as first lady at Long Branch, and that his father also enjoyed his working vacations there. Jesse wrote that his mother, after once being teased by the president about spending so much time sitting on the porch, showed her physical fitness by suddenly mimicking a Jesse routine - vaulting the veranda railing.


President and First Lady Grant in 1872 at their Long Branch cottage with their son Jesse. Jesse recalled years later that his mother once jumped merrily over the veranda railing.

Grant’s presence at Long Branch injected thousands of dollars into the local economy each day and set local trends. Once Grant started attending horse races at the nearby Monmouth Park racetrack, which opened to disappointingly small crowds in 1871, “the masses followed,” according to Melissa Kozlowski. The racetrack owners, probably aware of Grant’s normative effect (if Grant visited the new racetrack, others would, too), installed a statue of Grant at the front entrance. The racetrack has long since been demolished without a trace, Kozlowski wrote.

Most Thursdays during their summers by the beach, the Grants would take “delightful sails” up to New York, Julia wrote. These sails continued after Grant’s presidency, including in 1880, when the Grants were house-hunting in New York City. The Grants would sail up to the city for a day to see friends and political allies until the former president’s financial collapse on Wall Street in 1884.

It was from his Long Branch base that the destitute public figure made his first appearance after the failure of Wall Street investment firm Grant & Ward. Worried about how he would be received after the much publicized failure, Grant traveled to nearby Ocean Grove for an army chaplain convention, and was encouraged by his warm welcome.

It was also after his presidency that Grant started attending services at a church that still stands on Ocean Drive in Long Branch’s Elberon section, according to the Long Branch Historical Museum Association. The church was later named the Church of the Presidents, because Grant and presidents Hayes, Garfield, Arthur, Harrison, and Wilson all attended services there. President Garfield died in a cottage across the street from the church after being shot in Washington, D.C. in 1881. The Garfield site, like the Grant cottage itself, no longer exists. In 1955, the church became the Long Branch Historical Museum. An association is now working to renovate the historic building.


This rarely seen artifact, a porch chair used by U.S. Grant at his cottage, was removed from storage and photographed exclusively for this essay by Jim Foley of the Long Branch Historical Museum Association. The association is working to restore the community’s Church of the Presidents building.

Long Branch factored into Grant’s later life in other ways. It was where Grant in 1884 met with Century magazine associate editor Robert Underwood Johnson and made the deal to write for the publication, a project that led to Grant’s Personal Memoirs. It was also where Grant first experienced throat pain that was eventually diagnosed as the cancer that would take his life in 1885.

Renovations changed its appearance over the years, and the cottage was demolished in 1963.

As Long Branch changed, so did the Grant cottage. Renovations changed its appearance over the years, and the cottage was demolished in 1963.  Modern homes in today’s considerably upscale neighborhood have replaced many of the original properties, says Joan Schnorbus of the Long Branch Historical Museum Association.


President Grant’s marker at the Long Branch monument. Photo courtesy of Joan Schnorbus.

She points out there is no marker on the cottage’s exact site, which sits on the property of what was Childs’s chalet. The exact spot “is currently a vacant lot used by the neighboring retreat house as a water retention/open space site,” reports local historical activist Edward Thomas. That chalet has been expanded into the Stella Maris Retreat Center, which has been owned since 1941 by the Sisters of St. Joseph of Peace.

Grant is remembered, along with the other six presidents who spent time locally, in a small beachfront monument in Long Branch. But elsewhere in town, the site of the summer White House of one of history’s most important Americans remains anonymous, just a lawn on the Jersey shore.

The Grant Monument Association thanks Joan Schnorbus and Jim Foley of the Long Branch Historical Museum Association and local historical activist Edward Thomas for their most generous assistance with this article and its illustrations. For more information:


This monument in Long Branch
commemorates the presidents who vacationed in the seaside resort, including Grant. The center statue is of President James A. Garfield, who died here in 1881. Photo courtesy of Joan Schnorbus.

Long Branch Historical Museum Association

 

<< Grant at Long Branch: The Summer White House of the Grant Presidency >>
Long Branch Background The Camp David of Its Day The Grants’ Lives at Long Branch
Bibliography Home